If you’ve been wondering where Todd has been lately, you’re not alone. The good news? He’s back—back in the saddle and back to answering the real-world RV questions that owners deal with every day.
In this Tech Tip Tuesday, Todd tackles a wide range of questions sent in by RVers, covering everything from water heater maintenance and altitude adjustments to propane systems, waste tanks, and refrigerators that won’t switch to propane. These are the kinds of issues that don’t always show up in the owner’s manual but can absolutely ruin a trip if you’re not prepared.
Let’s dig into the highlights.
What Happens When Your Anode Rod Is Completely Gone?
One of the first questions Todd addresses is a common (and important) one:
What happens if there’s nothing left of the anode rod in a Suburban water heater?
Suburban water heaters use a steel tank, which means they rely on an anode rod to protect the tank from corrosion. That anode rod is sacrificial by design—it attracts minerals and impurities in the water so they don’t attack the tank itself.
If the anode rod is gone, those minerals don’t disappear. Instead, they begin bonding directly to the tank walls. Over time, this causes pitting, weakens the metal, and eventually leads to tank failure. Once that happens, replacement is usually the only option.
It’s also important to know that not all RV water heaters use anode rods.
- Suburban water heaters: steel tank → anode rod required
- Dometic / older Atwood water heaters: aluminum tank → plastic drain plug, no anode rod
Aluminum doesn’t react with minerals the same way steel does. That said, Todd points out that even aluminum tanks can develop strange sludge depending on water quality, so periodic flushing is still a smart idea.
How Often Should You Flush Your RV Water Heater?
There’s no one-size-fits-all answer here, but Todd recommends a simple rule of thumb:
Check your water heater at least twice a year.
Water quality varies wildly from place to place. Hard water with high mineral content will eat through an anode rod much faster than soft water. Some RVers may need to replace their anode rod every six months, while others can go a full year with minimal wear.
The key is inspection. Drain the tank, take a look, and let the condition—not the calendar—guide your maintenance.
Adjusting a Suburban Water Heater for High Elevation
Another great question:
How do you adjust a Suburban water heater for high elevation?
When operating above roughly 5,000 feet, propane appliances require a different air-to-gas mixture. Suburban addresses this by providing a high-elevation orifice (often called a nipple).
If your RV was purchased new, that part may already be included—sometimes taped inside the water heater compartment or tucked into the owner’s packet. On used RVs, it may be long gone.
If you can’t find it, replacements are available online, but Todd offers a word of caution:
If you’re unsure about what you’re doing, this is a good time to call a qualified RV technician. Improper propane adjustments can cause poor performance—or worse.
Do You Have to Separate Black and Gray Tanks?
One viewer asked about converting a bus into an RV and whether regulations require separate black and gray tanks.
Todd explains that, to his knowledge, NFPA codes do not require black and gray tanks to be separate. In fact, some early RVs—like vintage Airstreams—used a single combined tank.
So why are they usually separate today?
Simple practicality. Gray water fills much faster, and in some locations, gray water can be dumped where black water cannot. Separate tanks give RVers more flexibility and fewer headaches on the road.
If you combine them, you just need to be aware that all waste must be dumped in approved locations.
Refrigerator Won’t Switch to Propane When the Generator Is Off
This question hits close to home for many RVers:
The refrigerator runs fine on generator or shore power, but when those are turned off, it won’t switch to propane—even though you hear the igniter clicking.
That ticking sound tells you the control board is calling for ignition. What’s missing is the flame. Possible causes include:
- No propane flow
- A faulty gas valve solenoid
- A blocked burner
- Igniter or grounding issues
Because this involves propane, Todd strongly recommends bringing in a qualified RV technician. Troubleshooting gas appliances without proper training isn’t worth the risk.
The Big Takeaway
What ties all of these questions together is preparation. Most RV problems don’t happen suddenly—they build up quietly over time. Regular inspections, understanding how your systems work, and knowing when to call in a professional can save you money, stress, and ruined trips.
Todd’s return to Tech Tip Tuesday reminds us why these short lessons matter. They’re not about memorizing specs—they’re about confidence, safety, and enjoying life on the road without unpleasant surprises.
And with that… there’s your tech tip.