If you’ve spent any time traveling in an RV, you already know every day brings a new challenge. Some are small and some are… well, memorable. As an RV inspector, I spend a lot of time helping owners avoid the surprises that can cost them time, money, or their weekend plans. One of the most common questions I get—especially from newer RVers—has to do with electrical hookups and those long, heavy adapters we all end up carrying around.
You’ve probably heard them called “dog bones.” And even though they’re simple pieces of equipment, understanding how and when to use them makes a big difference in how safely and comfortably your RV operates.
This guide walks you through the why, when, and how behind these adapters, using real-world examples from RV life.
Why RV Electrical Adapters Matter
In a perfect world, every campground pedestal would match your RV’s electrical needs exactly. If you’re a 50-amp rig, you’d roll into your site and find a clean, properly functioning 50-amp outlet waiting for you. If you’re a 30-amp rig, the same.
But RVers don’t live in that perfect world.
You may find yourself in any of these situations:
1. You reserved a 50-amp site… but only 30-amp is available when you arrive.
Maybe a previous guest extended their stay. Maybe the park is busier than expected. Either way, an adapter becomes your best friend.
2. The pedestal breaker is broken — and it’s after hours.
It happens more than you’d think. Maintenance crews have gone home, but you still need power until morning.
3. You’re moochdocking (driveway camping).
Most homes offer only a 15- or 20-amp outlet. It’s enough to get by, but you need the right adapter to safely connect.
4. Shared sites at events or rallies.
At women’s RV events we host, it’s common for two 30-amp rigs to share a site that has both a 50-amp and 30-amp connection. In that case, one person ends up on the 50-amp outlet using an adapter.
5. State and national parks with limited electrical options.
Some parks offer only one type of outlet per site—or they may limit power due to conservation or aging infrastructure.
With all these possibilities, having the correct dog bone — and understanding how to use it — becomes essential.
What You’ll See on a Typical Campground Pedestal
Most campground pedestals provide:
- 50-amp outlet
- 30-amp outlet
- 15- or 20-amp household-style outlet
The adapters themselves come in several configurations. Examples include:
- 50-amp male → 30-amp female
- 30-amp male → 50-amp female
- 30-amp male → 15/20-amp female
- And the reverse setups
Knowing which one you need before you leave home is key. Many RVers grab something off a store shelf thinking it will cover every situation — then discover the plug doesn’t match what’s in front of them at the campground.
Ask me how I know.
Best Practices When Using Dog Bone Adapters
To protect your RV’s electrical system, here’s the order you should follow every time:
-
Turn off every 120-volt appliance inside your RV.
AC units, microwave, water heater, converter if possible — everything. - Connect your RV’s power cord to the correct end of the adapter.
- Make sure the breaker at the pedestal is OFF.
- Plug your adapter into the pedestal.
- Switch the breaker ON.
Using a surge protector or EMS?
Yes, you should still use it.
The order becomes:
RV power cord → EMS/surge protector → adapter → pedestal
A Critical Safety Note About Moochdocking
If you’re plugging into a 15- or 20-amp outlet at someone’s home, you need to be aware of one issue that is surprisingly common: reverse polarity.
Homeowners often never notice it because their devices still work.
But in an RV, reverse polarity:
- Energizes the neutral line inside your RV
- Provides no thermal protection on that neutral
- Brings you closer to a hot-skin condition
A hot-skin condition can be dangerous — even fatal — especially for pets or kids touching the exterior steps or metal components of your RV.
This is one of the reasons I always recommend using an EMS when adapting down to household current.
Understanding Your Available Power
This is where many RVers get tripped up.
50-amp RV plugging into a 30-amp outlet
You only have access to 3,600 watts (30 amps × 120 volts).
That means:
- Usually one AC at a time
- Microwave OR coffee maker, but not both
- No simultaneous high-draw appliances
You must dial back everything you normally run on 50 amps.
30-amp RV plugging into a 50-amp outlet
Even though the pedestal offers around 12,000 watts, you cannot use that.
Your RV is still protected by:
- A 30-amp main breaker
- A 30-amp shore power cord
Your RV is the limiting factor — not the pedestal.
Plugging into a 15- or 20-amp household outlet
Expect only 1,800 to 2,400 watts.
This is bare-bones power, usually just enough to:
- Keep batteries charged
- Run the fridge
- Possibly run one small AC, but not reliably
This setup is meant for “just enough to get by,” not full RV living.
Final Thoughts
Dog bone adapters are simple tools, but they play a huge role in keeping your RV powered safely and effectively. When you understand how each one works, you can handle just about any power situation a campground throws at you.
And if this kind of problem-solving interests you — or you’re the one friends call when something goes wrong — you might enjoy digging deeper. At the National RV Training Academy, we teach RVers how to troubleshoot, maintain, and even build a business around helping others.
If that sounds like a path you want to explore, reach out to a student advisor at NRVTA.com. You can learn the skills, travel, earn income, and help fellow RVers along the way.