One of the best parts about what we do at the National RV Training Academy is the questions we get from RVers all over the country—especially from women. Whether you’re traveling solo, camping as a couple, or somewhere in between, the questions are thoughtful, practical, and rooted in real-life RV use.
During this Tech Tip Tuesday, we gathered a handful of common questions that come up again and again. If you’ve ever wondered about shore power, water heaters, fresh water sanitation, or propane systems, chances are you’ve asked one of these yourself.
Let’s walk through them.
Using a 30-Amp RV at a 50-Amp Campsite
A very common concern for RVers with 30-amp rigs is campground power availability. Many first-come, first-served parks have limited 30-amp sites, with far more 50-amp pedestals available. That naturally leads to the question: Can a 30-amp RV safely plug into a 50-amp outlet?
The short answer is yes—with the right setup.
When you use a dog bone adapter to connect your 30-amp RV to a 50-amp pedestal, your RV does not suddenly gain 50-amp capacity. Your RV’s power cord, electrical system, and breaker panel are still rated for 30 amps, which equals a maximum of about 3,600 watts.
That means you can operate your RV exactly as you normally would on a 30-amp site. You’ll still need to manage your loads and avoid running multiple high-draw appliances at the same time, such as the air conditioner and microwave together.
The correct connection order is:
- 50-amp pedestal
- Dog bone adapter
- EMS surge protector
- RV power cord
Used properly, this setup is safe and common.
Should You Drain Your Water Heater Between Trips?
Another frequent question involves water heaters, especially for RVers who take trips every couple of weeks.
If your RV has a traditional tank-style water heater—typically six, eight, or ten gallons—the water inside is constantly being refreshed during use. Every time you shower or wash dishes, old water leaves the tank and new water replaces it.
For trips spaced two to three weeks apart, leaving water in the tank usually isn’t a problem. Some RVers prefer to drain it anyway because they like starting each trip with completely fresh water. Others leave it alone until the end of the season when it’s time to winterize.
Both approaches are fine. Draining between trips won’t hurt anything, but it isn’t strictly necessary either. It comes down to personal preference and how often you use your RV.
Understanding and Maintaining Your Anode Rod
If your RV has a Suburban steel tank water heater, it uses an anode rod as the drain plug. This rod is designed to corrode over time so the tank itself doesn’t.
A common misconception is that a corroded anode rod means something is wrong. In reality, corrosion means it’s doing its job.
The general rule of thumb is to replace the anode rod when it’s about 50% deteriorated. That said, water quality varies widely depending on where you camp, so how quickly the rod wears down can change from location to location.
If the rod still looks mostly intact, it’s fine to reinstall it and check it again later. Many RVers inspect it every month or two during heavy travel seasons and keep a spare on hand just in case.
Sanitizing a Freshwater Tank Without a Gravity Fill
Some newer RVs no longer have a traditional gravity fill port for the freshwater tank. Instead, they use a single threaded connection with a selector valve to switch between city water and tank fill.
That design raises an important question: How do you get a bleach-water mixture into the freshwater tank for sanitizing?
The solution is simple.
Attach your potable water hose to the tank fill connection as usual. Then, using a funnel, pour the measured bleach-water mixture directly into the hose. This method sanitizes the hose at the same time. Once the mixture is in, connect the hose to the campground spigot, fill the tank, and run the water through every faucet, shower, and outlet in the RV. Let it sit overnight before flushing the system.
Many RVers sanitize mid-season or after de-winterizing in the spring, depending on how the rig is used.
How Auto Changeover Propane Regulators Really Work
Finally, let’s talk propane—specifically dual-tank setups with auto changeover regulators.
If your trailer has two DOT propane cylinders and an auto changeover regulator, the system will automatically switch to the second tank when the first one empties—but only if both service valves are open.
The lever on the regulator does not perform the switch itself. Its purpose is simply to indicate which tank is currently in use and which one is empty. When the indicator turns red, it’s letting you know that one tank has run out and the system has moved to the other.
Some RVers prefer to leave only one tank open at a time so they don’t accidentally run both tanks empty without noticing. Others leave both open and rely on the indicator. Either method works, as long as you understand how your system is set up.
Keep the Questions Coming
These are smart questions, and they come from real-world RV experiences. The more you understand your RV systems, the more confident and comfortable you’ll be on the road.
If you have questions of your own, keep them coming. And if you’re interested in learning RV systems at a deeper level—whether for personal knowledge or to build a career—the National RV Training Academy is here to help.
That’s your Tech Tip Tuesday.